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Costa Brava Living - blog area

Walks and other things

Walks on the Costa Brava - click for a larger version One of the joys of the Costa Brava is the variety of landscapes and we like to visit places and walk (a lot), particularly into and around the Gavarres. Sometimes we travel around on bike. In the summer, we swim and canoe.

These then are write ups of walks, hikes and activities that we've done since November 2012, with photos straight from the original walk or activity.

We like to make circular walks and our walks range in length from about 4km (an hour) to around 16km (four hours) - but probably about 2 1/2 hours on average - though if you want to reduce the length, there are usually shortcuts.

To find walks by location, click on the map, which goes to a full sized map with links to individual walks and visits. To our surprise, we were listed in the Sunday Times' Essential Costa Brava (Feb 2017).

The most visited walks are:

Swimming and canoeing at Sa Tuna (Begur)
09 Sep 2013

Beach and boats at Sa Tuna Begur Costa Brava Sa Tuna is one of the three beach area connected with Begur (Sa Riera and Fornells/Platja Fondo/Aiguablava being the others).

Sa Tuna itself is at the back of Begur around the Circumval.lacio down a 2-3km long windy road to the sea.

At Sa Tuna itself is a small hamlet of what would have been fishermen's houses sitting above a quiet bay with fishing boats, and a handful of restaurants above the main beach. Around the corner is the bay of Aiguafreda with the large hotel of Cap Sa Sal on the neighbouring headland.

The bay itself is enclosed on three sides and protected from the sea by a promentary/penisular marked with a Catalan flag that juts out into the sea on the opposite side of the bay.

The main beach sits in front of the restaurants with boat access, but once you get out into the water, you can see a second beach around to the right, accessible easily from the water, or a scramble down from the path that runs over the cliffs.

From the water itself you also see the small sea caves in the cliff walls. The beaches are pebbly rather than sand, with rocks in the bay. The natural landscape of the bay makes it perfect as an area to explore by canoe, or for diving.

Facilities at the beaches

Sa Tuna Begur beach under the cliffs Though the beach itself is stony, it does attract holidaymakers and there is a lifeguard service and canoe hire.

Directly behind the main beach are a handful of restaurant and the occasional small shop that blend in with the traditional fishing hamlet ambience. The second beach is isolated and accessible via a scramble off the path, or directly from the water.

Sand quality

It's fair to say there is little in the way of sand at the beach, it being almost all pebbles. The bay is also rocky which makes entering the water somewhat cautious and tentative when the water's chilly.


Swimming is good with a good variety of places to explore. The boats are moored on the left-hand side looking out to sea, so though it is possible to swim around the headland to Aiguafreda (also a pebbly beach), it would mean swimming across the main boat channel.

Swimming to the right gives views of the cliffs and caves with rocks under water. Though the bay is rocky close to the shore, in the centre it tends to be a little more sandy.

Sa Tuna Begur swimming area under cliffs and second hidden beach Canoeing

The geography with the promentary/penisular and the neighbouring bays makes this a rewarding area to explore by canoe with plenty to see in an hour or two's canoeing, particularly if you're kayaking and swimming.

The shelter of the bay gives good protection and smooth water, but if you go out around the headland, the water becomes more open and can become choppy.


Parking can be difficult as there are a limited number of places. Parking extends up the access road, and the general advice would be that if you see a space take it. Parking around the main harbour is tricky.


The GR92 runs around the Cap de Begur headland. From this beach see Sa Tuna, Cap de Begur, Begur or see Begur, Ses Negres and Sa Riera - Palafrugell, Tamariu, Begur residential and Esclanya - Masos de Pals, Begur, Sa Riera and Platja de PalsFornells and Aiguablava walk (GR92)

Next beaches

South to Platja Fonda (Begur) - North to Sa Riera (Begur)

Swimming and bay of St Antoni de Calonge
09 Sep 2013

Beach at Sant Antoni de Calonge looking to Torre Valentina with artifical reef Sant Antoni de Calonge sits next door to, and is sometimes confused with, Palamos as the long sand beach links the fishing port at Palamos around the bay to the hotel and rocks at Torre Valentina.

Although there is a traditional old heart to St Antoni, in the main the town consists of more modern apartment blocks, hotels and terraces of houses that line up 4-5 rows deep from the beach back to the main road that connects Palamos to Platja d'Aro.

The town has other areas and links to Calonge and villa estates and campsites above Torre Valentina but it has the feeling of a faintly underused purpose-built holiday area that lacks a little in character or pizzazz.

The beach area consists of a number of artificial bays protected by groynes of rocks to keep the sand from being washed away. If you're familiar with the beaches in Barcelona, this area has a very similar feel and quality.

At the back of the beach is a long promenade that would take you all the way to Palamos or round to Torre Valentina. The promenade has been recently done up (2019) and is good for a stroll. Though there are a few smaller hotels, the area is mainly residential and quiet, with a selection of bars, shops and restaurants looking out to sea.

The beaches with protection running parallel to the beach form a number of small and very sheltered bays. Some are used for mooring boats in addition to sunbathing, and because of the protection, the water keeps warmer than the open sea, and the sand shelves gently making it family friendly for smaller children.

Unfortunately that doesn't get round the artificial feel. If it was a city and the only beach it would be OK, but with so many other better Costa Brava beaches nearby, there's not really a reason to use this one.

Facilities at the beaches

The beaches have lifeguard stations and in places on the promenade at the back there are occasional shops and bars. Recently they've added a floating obstacle course (think Wipeout) for children in one of the bays.

Swimming areas are marked out with buoys. The beaches with long groynes reaching out to the sea are more open and feel more natural, with fresher water and more chance of waves.

The beaches behind the parallel rocks are warmer and more sheltered by feel much more artificial.

Beach at Sant Antoni de Calonge looking around the bay to Palamos

Sand quality

Sand quality varies along the beach. In parts it feels fine, in other areas it is grainy and stony.

If you do use the beach, walk along the sand to find the best areas. Even in the parts that are stony, the area at the water's edge can still have softer sand.


The only positive benefit for swimming was the possibility of warmer water earlier or later in the season.

The bays have a sandy bottom and the odd fish can be seen, but it feels very man-made.

If you are in the direct local area, swimming across the small bays would be good exercise, but nothing to really get excited about.


There is parking at the back of Sant Antoni closer to the main road.


This is an area for pleasant passeo from Palamos to Torre Valentina rather than a mainstream walk.

Next beaches

South to Belladona and bays to Torre Valentina - North to Palamos main beach

Blanes, Lloret de Mar, Tossa de Mar by GR92
30 Aug 2013

Blanes view from the tower of Castell de Sant Joan Costa Brava The two best known tourist towns on the Costa Brava are Lloret de Mar and Tossa de Mar - the first for its nightlife and the second for its panaroma and old walled town by the sea.

The two towns are at the southern end of the Costa Brava and are much busier and livelier than the more genteel towns that further north in central Costa Brava.

However, before we moved here, our first experience of walking in this area was travelling up by train from Barcelona to Blance on the local Barcelona train network (Rodalies) that runs up the Maresme coast.

The first time we took the 70 minute train journey up to Blanes and then made a walk to Lloret, before returning to Blanes on one of the regular Dojijet passenger boats that run schedules up and down the coast calling in at the towns and beaches.

The second time we also went by train but took the bus to Lloret from the train and then walked to Tossa, again before catching the boat back down the coast.

If you're staying in Barcelona, both options are very practical ways of seeing the start of the Costa Brava by public transport for an adventure out of the city.

Platja de Boadella between Lloret and Blanes Costa Brava However, despite the popularity of the towns for holiday makers, we don't go to the southern towns of the Costa Brava very often. We'd be more likely to go to Girona for shopping, or to keep to the beaches closer to home than make the trip to the more southern resorts.

Today, however, our children have a visit to Lloret's Water World water park, to make use of the remaining 2x1 tickets they got as part of their day at Platja d'Aro's Aquadiver Park Water Park when their cousins came to visit (one ticket gives you access to both parks).

So we're getting dropped off in Blanes for the walk while everyone else splashes about on the slides of Water World, then meeting up again in Tossa (about 21km) later in the day.

It means this is a linear walk rather than circular walk that we prefer, but as mentioned, the Dofijet boats run up and down the coast, so giving you the novelty of completing the loop by sea if you want to get back to the start point.

Fenals beach in Lloret de Mar The walk starts in Blanes which is officially the start of the Costa Brava as it's the first point where you come into the rocky headlands that distinguish the Costa Brava coast.

To the south of Blanes is the Maresme coast, a long stretch of fairly featureless beach than runs all the way to Barcelona taking in the Maresme towns of Malgrat de Mar, Santa Susanna, Pineda de Mar and Calella de la Costa (different from Calella de Palafrugell), that are often mislabelled as Costa Brava by less scrupulous tour operators.

Cala Banys Lloret de Mar In many ways Blanes resembles the Maresme towns more than those further north.

Streets are laid out in blocks which gives the town a more industrial type feel and it's a town more orientated towards Catalan visitors than those from overseas.

The ease of access from Barcelona means it is popular with locals, but it has far fewer non-Catalan tourists.

Reaching the sea-front after passing through the town, we're greeted by a long broad Passeig Maritim full of restaurants and bars built for people who want to take an evening passeo, but in the morning it's quite quiet.

The beach itself is very clean and looks as if it has been raked, but as the day is a little early and overcast there aren't too many sunbathers on the sand.

The beach splits in two - a long sandy Maresme-type stretch to the south, then a rocky headland (Sa Palmora) - almost the marking stone for the Costa Brava and then the first proper Costa Brava type bay (Badia de Blanes) up to the port area.

First view of Lloret main beach We walk along the Passeig Maritim to the port and then realise that we've missed the turning for the GR92.

When we first did this walk, several years ago, we made the same mistake and had to negotiate the roads and estates above the town to get back on track.

This time we double back but either we've missed the sign or the signposting isn't clear and we have to hunt to find the starting point, walking past the tiny church of Nostra Senyora de l'Esperanca before finding the connection at a loop at the back of Carrer Camadasa and then up a concrete stepped footpath at the back of the houses rising above the sea line.

We're heading up to the tower of Castell de Sant Joan the highpoint above the town - and the ideal site for photos.

The path between the houses runs out into a park-like area, and we run into the first proper flight of stairs.

This part of the walk is almost all stairways. I only counted the steps on the upper third of the walk (250), so my guess is that this is a climb of 600-1000 steps to reach the tower at the top - so we reached the top sweating and with slightly aching knees.

The view from tower at the top looks down across Blanes and its beaches and down along the Maresme coast across the mouth of the Todera river. To the north you can make out the villas and urbanisations around Lloret in the distance.

The popularity of this area means there are large numbers of vast urbanisations such as Aguaviva Park scattered across the hills and down to the coast, each house straining for a distant sea view.

We're not keen on urbanisations as they normally lack a centre and facilities and seem to be more a sprawling mass of holiday homes, either with dogs, or shut down in the winter.

Beach and Castell dEn Plaja at the end of Lloret beach The GR92 continues past the tower and through the woods before reaching the road to Sant Cristina.

The sea is to the right, but we're walking away from the coast on the ridgeway, with the area to the right firstly more of a gated urbanisation, and then subsequently the fenced off area for the Botanical gardens of Pinya de Rosa.

It's a pity as it means we're walking on the road past houses and vilas when it would be much more rewarding to be closer to the sea, but without local knowledge and a long walk ahead of us we're not exploring to see if there are better alternatives.

Cala Trons around the corner for Lloret After the botanical gardens the next fenced off area is for the Hermitage of Santa Cristina with road access down to the beach of Treumal and Santa Cristina.

Since we're aiming for a long walk we don't take the diversion down to the beach. If we were exploring more we'd look to see if there were other routes closer to the coast as the GR92 is proving a little disappointing at this point between Blanes and Lloret.

Finally we find a route off the road and down towards the Platja de Boadella.

We're in trees and can see the coast with the sandy unspoilt beach below us which looks as if it is popular with naturists.

The GR92 now connects with the Jardins de Santa Clotilde at the outskirts of Lloret. The GR92 runs around the outside, but as we go past the other side, we realilse we could have gone through the gardens for a small fee.

Just the other side of the gardens the GR92 is back on the road at Fenals, but we quickly dip back into the woods above Platja de Fenals - Lloret's second (and quieter) beach.

There's a headland over the beach with views back down the coast towards Blanes.

We walk along the back of Fenals beach which is full of children and families. In the bay someone is parascending being towed by a speed boat.

Platja de Canyelles between Lloret and Tossa de Mar Costa Brava Around the other side of the bay it looks like the path should pass through a tunnel to the next headland, but the tunnel has been closed by a rock fall (probably from some time ago) so we have to double back and find the GR92 marked near the souvenir shops at the end of the beach.

It would be easy just to follow the road directly to Lloret, but the GR92's red and white flashes actually take us to the back of a small park and up a flight of steps heading back to the sea.

At the top we continue straight on to reach a watch-tower on the cliffs above the coast. This is another tower called Sant Joan and a twin to the one above Blanes.

The path now takes steps down towards the sea through the rocks and through what seems to be the middle of a bar/restaurant down into the rock pools of Cala Banys - there's no beach here but lots of places to scramble.

We also notice that it's starting to get busier with lots of tourists around and we can make out other languages including Russian (the Costa Brava is proving very popular with East Europeans).

Beach at Platja Canyelles Around the headland from Cala Banys we get the first sight of Lloret's beach and the town itself.

Lloret's main beach is long with a castle at the far end from where we're standing.

There are lots of people on the beach and swimming and dotted along the beach front are numerous stalls offering water-based attractions like jetskiing, or boat trips.

Around Lloret the hills are full of urbanisations with holiday villas and houses that can be seen from the rocky end of the beach. We're not here to visit the town, but Lloret is the busiest and liveliest town on the Costa Brava and very popular with young people from across Europe looking for bars and clubs.

Outside the main season though, its actually still popular with Catalans and walking in winter we'd find retired Catalan folk enjoying the town.

Tossa de Mar view over the walled old town Instead we walk along the promenade at the top of the beach around to the castle.

There are numerous bars, hotels and restaurants selling cheap food like burgers and pizzas, but the sea front buildings are only about 7-8 storeys high so it doesn't feel over-built in the way other package holiday towns like Benidorm can feel (though, as ever with Costa Brava towns, there is one over-sized edificio).

With the people and the scenery it's not an unpleasant beach to walk along.

Platja Codolar Tossa de Mar We reach the far end of the beach under the castle (Castell d'En Plaja) - a mock castle built in the 1930-40s.

The beach at the far end is rocky again and a small islet just in the sea beyond the holidaymakers is full of cormorants enjoying the sea.

The path curls around the base of the castle and round to the next bay. Suddenly Lloret is behind us and we're back to a more regular Costa Brava scene with a rocky bay and pebbly beach beneath us.

We still have tourists around, though after another set of steps up, the tourist numbers drop off as we round to the next bay a small sandy beach of Cala Trons with a handful of holiday makers in the water.

We try to continue on the path, but the route is closed for Cala Tortuga, so instead we have to double back and take the road through the urbanisation meeting the GR92 again as it returns to follow estate roads - so yet more tarmac.

The sun has also come out so it's starting to get hot and dry - one of the challenges of walking in August - we've brought water but it's going fast.

The path curves up and around the urbanisation and then down towards Canyelles past more villas with sea views and mature gardens.

The road runs past the urbanisation centre - little more than a diving centre, an restaurant and an estate agent - urbanisations always seem to have minimal facilities and then turns down to the beach.

The red-white flashes are easy to follow, and we turn left just before a tunnel and go right down to the sand.

Platja de Canyelles has a small marina on one side and a sandy beach divided into one main beach and a couple of smaller coves.

It's a very pretty beach, but relatively quiet, and would be somewhere to visit as an alternative when Lloret is too busy.

We refill with water and I dip my hat in the shower to cool down as the day is now getting properly hot.

Fortified old town of Tossa de Mar from the main beach The walk out from Canyelles is all up hill and still largely road and estate houses.

Eventually the road turns into a track through the woods at the back of the next urbanisation.

It's dusty and there's not that much to see. it would be nice to reach Cala Llorell - the next bay, but the GR92 skirts round the fences at the back of the estate and it's not clear if it's because the beach or urbanisation is private or because the geography prevents the path getting down to sea level again.

Instead we're heading up and over the top of the urbanisation - the fence always to our right and little to see, and when we reach the top, the main Lloret-Tossa road in earshot (but not visible).

We continue around the top of the estate and start to see the hills at the back of Tossa de Mar.

The GR92 runs along the road for a while before turning off to the right along a ridge way through the woods towards Tossa.

Mar Menyuda beach in Tossa de Mar As we get closer to Tossa de Mar we decide to take the Cami de Ronda to the town rather than the GR92 as the GR92 runs through the back a little, while the Cami de Ronda runs around the cliffs and then down to the old walled town.

Suddenly we can see the sea again from the tops of the cliffs and Tossa comes into view.

Tossa itself is one of the most picturesque towns in the Costa Brava. The old town is walled and fortified - like Carcassonne by the sea - and stands above the sea on a peninsular with beaches on two sides.

The modern town and beach sits below the castle walls and are full of good quality restaurants and hotels. It's very popular, but whereas Lloret is more for younger people, Tossa feels more refined and middle aged.

As we walk down the cliffs we see the first turrets of the fortified old town and the houses in the middle with boats in the bay in the background. Beneath us, people are swimming in the turquoise sea of Platja d'Es Codolar, clear enough to see to the bottom beneath them.

We walk down and past the restaurants outside the old town walls.We'd visit more but we've been before and the walk has been tiring and we have a lift to meet.

On the other side of the old town we return to the main beach and walk all the way along to Tossa's third beach (La Mar Menuda)

Though we've walked this before I think our expectations have changed from the first times we walked this way out of Barcelona. In all, it was a little disappointing - the GR92 is normally a reliable high quality interesting route.

Perhaps surprisingly the coastal areas around Lloret were the best walking. Elsewhere there were simply too many fences and estates and just too much tarmac - probably about 70% of the walk was on the road.

In particular the area to the south of Tossa is particularly frustrating and obviously on a longer distance walk we don't have time to explore so much.

The next time we return we'd want to look for more local alternatives to the GR92 that take us closer to the sea - so shorter distances and not trying to link the towns.

Neighbouring walks: Platja Sant Pol to Sant Feliu de Guixols - Tossa de Mar north to Cala Pola - Tossa de Mar to Cala Llorell - Sant Grau and Cadiretes near Tossa de Mar - Cala de Sant Francesc (Blanes) - Lloret de Mar to Sant Pere del Bosc

And more details on the stretch between Sant Cristina and Lloret de Mar: Lloret's Platja de Boadella, Platja de Santa Cristina and The Fence

Swimming and beach: Swimming and beaches of Tossa de Mar - Swimming and beach at Fenals, Lloret de Mar

Walking route GR92 from Blanes to Lloret de Mar and Tossa de Mar

Verges, Tallada d'Emporda and Maranya
30 Aug 2013

View to Verges from Maranya Costa Brava Normally the weather holds out until the first weeks of September, but this year it seems that the first overcast days have arrived in late August. With the change of weather we decided to go back into the countryside for walking, this time from Verges towards the hills of Castellar at the back. This is an area not so far from L'Escala.

We last visited Verges for the Dance of the Dead (Verges - Dansa de la Mort) which takes place in Easter week, but it was more to see the procession than to see the town. This time we're in daylight so can explore a little further afield.

Verges village mill Verges itself is a small village that acts as a junction point for cars coming from the north going either to Torroella de Montgri, or continuing south to La Bisbal and then to Palafrugell or Palamos - so it has a sense of being something of a transit town.

We park just up by the football field and then walk back down to the village. In an open space just next to the junction for the two routes, a small flea market has set up and we walk around the stalls bewildered to see rusty saws and old glass drinks bottles for sale in amongst the older furniture and book collections.

Verges castle in the middle of the village We walk down the road in the direction of La Bisbal to see an old water mill that we often see on the way up to Figueres. Verges sits just above the river Ter, which is a broad river which always has water and is navigable by kayak or canoe (hire point at Colomers, two villages along the river from Verges) and Verges itself has a small stream that runs around the village before passing underneath the disused mill.

Following the road around the back we can see the stream which almost looks like a moat protecting the central houses with small bridges across the water to reach the gardens. We turn up across the stream and enter the main village part and head towards the church. The church tower always looks impressive and well cared for from a distance, In the main square is an old castle-like structure - a big stone building with a tower but despite Verges fame, the rest of the houses and streets in the town are rather plain and drab and without the darkness or candle light, the village lacks much in the way of charm.

Leaving the centre we head back towards the football field where we take the right hand fork (marked as a health route) to the fields and on towards a farm. Some times walking through fields feels delightful with crops growing, fertility and butterflies and insectts. In this case, he ground is flat but rough and feels unkempt. It's not helped by the small drainage ditch to the left of us which had been filled by the recent rain, and is now smelling as it dries out again. We walk past a number of cheaply-made red-brick farm buildings which seem to be the norm for this area.

Church at Tallada dEmporda We continue across the landscape in a sullen plod and turn towards Tallada d'Emporda. In the background we can see the Castle of Montgri and in the distance the hill at Montgo near L'Escala but the it feels uninspiring. As we reach Tallada d'Emporda there are series of newer buildings as we enter the village and we can see the clock on the church, just above the bells. We navigate the backstreets and find the church besides the castle in a medieval area strangely away from the village centre. An old farm sits in what would have been the castle forecourt with a barn in the same roughly laid red bricks style which looks so tatty. The area is being refurbished so this might not be totally fair, but at the moment the area feels uncared for.

Chapel at Maranya Costa Brava We have the option of continuing to Tor or going up directly to Maranya. As you might be able to tell, we're not finding the walk so attractive so we decide to go directly to Maranya and up towards the hills of Maranya. We're definitely in pig farm country and numerous low red brick buildings dot the fields or sit along side the path.

Maranya is a hamlet on the fringes of the hills and has good views to the distance and down towards Verges. Behind the hamlet into the hills, the vegetation changes more to trees and low scrub with broad tracks. We take a break at the very well restored chapel at the top of the village, then rather than continue into the scrub, we take the path down and start heading back.

It's peaceful and rabbits sit on the track in front of us, before darting into great sandy burrows to the right of the path.  We turn left and head through a small wood full of pine scent before zig-zagging our way back down to Verges slightly disappointed by the walk and the area.

Neighbouring walks: Colomers and Jafre - Vilopriu and Valldavia - Serra de Daro, Fonolleres, Sant Iscle d'Emporda - Verges - Dansa de la Mort - La Pera, Pubol and around - Bellcaire d'Emporda, Tor and Albons - Rupia and Foixa

Walking route Verges, Tallada dEmporda and Maranya

Beach at Platja de Castell - swimming and canoeing
26 Aug 2013

Size = 420 x 315 Platja de Castell is a very large unspoilt sandy beach situated just to the north of Palamos La Fosca. It's unusual in that for such a large beach it is actually in a protected area so there is no development allowed. It also marks the start of the set of wild beaches and bays that run up to Cap Roig and Calella de Palafrugell and as a result it is very popular as a starting point for canoeing up the coast.

The beach itself sits underneath an Iberic village on the cliffs to the left and has two older houses at either end but otherwise is completely natural. The woods and paths to the north lead to other secluded bays and beaches and in the forest you can find an artist studio/hut built specially for Salvador Dali. The beach has been used for filming and appears in a number of Spanish films.

The area to the right side, immediately below the pink house, and behind the last set of rocks is often used by naturists. Generally they can't be seen unless you specifically climb the rocks or swim over to the bay in that direction.

Facilities at the beaches

Though the beach is unspoilt, it does benefit from chiringuitos (beach-bars) on the beach, temporary toilets and a canoe hire service (to the left). Normally in the height of summer there are yachts and motor boats anchored in the bay outside the swimming line. At the back of the beach is an informal picnic area under the trees and a large seasonal car park is created every summer in the fields at the back with access from the C-31 dual carriageway. Parking is €5 per day until about 17.00 in the afternoon.

The Benelux Campsite is located about 1km away on the beach access road close by to Hotel Malcontent five-star hotel. The beach is connected to the Ruta del Tren Petit cycle paths and there is a lot of cycling and walking nearby.

Sand quality

The sand is soft and good quality in the main, but storms this year (2015) mean that entering the water now has pebbles and shingle for the right hand side of the beach. The left side closer to the cliffs of the Iberic village is softer.

Size = 420 x 315 Swimming

The bay is broad and quite open and one day can be smooth as a millpond, then the next have metre high waves. If the wind is blowing or the waves are coming, then the area under the cliffs to the left hand side tends to be quite sheltered and calm even on rough days. This is also the area best for snorkeling, seeing fish and exploring with a small sea cave under the cliffs.

The left hand side also shelves most gently into the water. Having said that, the main beach areas also has a quite gentle shelving and it's popular with families.

For long distance swims across the bay is fine, though there can be a chop from the sea-ward side. Alternatively swimming out close to the cliffs on the left will also give a good swimming distance. On the right, there are also rocks and snorkelling with the next bay of Cala S'Alguer around the headland (not swum this).


Castell is an excellent option for canoeing and kayaks can be hired on the beach or brought through to the beach from the car park (it's a long carry though). Even if you do it for a short time, there is a lot to explore. In particular, immediately around the corner of the left hand cliff under the Iberic village is a hidden bay only accessible by boat with sea-caves and tunnels you can paddle through.

Further on are the bays of Cala de Senia and Cala Estreta which are more isolated wild beaches with sandy beaches and rocky bays, but excellent for seeing fish. We've kayaked all the way from Castell to Llafranc taking about 2.5 hours one way including a stop in El Crit. It could be done more slowly exploring more of the caves and islets. Outside the shelter of the bays, if the wind is blowing, the sea can be choppy and in some of the quieter bays you will have to look out for rocks beneath you, but it's a marvellous way to explore the coast as many parts of the Castell-Cap Roig natural area are only accessible from sea.

To the right, an easy canoe is towards La Fosca through the bay of Cala s'Alguer a very pretty, and much photographed, run of fishermen's houses on a pebbly beach with a bay dotted with rocky islets.


Parking is easy with a temporary seasonal car park at the back of the beach which costs €5 per day.


This is one of the best areas for walking with the GR92 through the protected area of Castell-Cap Roig and the wild beaches of this area, or following the headland path to La Fosca.

For walks see: Calella de Palafrugell/Cap Roig to Castell - classic wild Costa Brava - Platja de Castell and La Fosca

For cycling see: Eulogy to the Ruta del Tren Petit (Palafrugell, Palamos, Mont-ras and Vall-llobrega)

Next beaches

South to La Fosca, Palamos - North to Cala Estreta and wild beaches to El Crit and Cap Roig

Swimming at the beach of Sa Conca (S'Agaro)
26 Aug 2013

Beach of Sa Conca in sAgaro Costa Brava - rockier left side Sa Conca is a large sandy beach located between the port-marina of Platja d'Aro and S'Agaro that nestles below the luxury housing estates of S'Agaro. The estates are gated and there are no direct hotels nearby, which means that despite the size of Sa Conca's beach, it's relatively uncrowded and very unspoilt.

The beach is broad and sandy with rocky areas at each side. The left side (looking out to sea) has a rockier bay and more fish. The main central part of the beach is sandier. As we were visiting in the evening, one thing we noticed is that it holds the sun for a long time as there are no cliffs or high rise buildings behind the beach.

Facilities at the beaches

The beach has mostly houses at the back and a couple of chiriguitos (beach bars on the sand). There are lifeguards on station and the bay is marked out for swimming. When we were there there was a large blue swimming plaftorm of the type seen in Platja d'Aro in the main bay area. The back of the beach has a large car park which we didn't use so I'm not sure how it is accessed.

Platja de Sa Conca right hand side Sand quality

The sand is coarse to gritty under foot and a little dusty away from the sea, though there is finer and softer sand at the two ends of the beach.


The beach shelves gently at the left and right extremes and near the rocks making it suitable for younger children. In the main area it shelves more quickly, but not as rapidly as say Platja d'Aro main beach. The rockier area to the left has a mix of submerged rocks and a sandy bottom. It's easy to enter the water along a sand channel without hurting your feet, though you do need to be aware of where the rocks are close to the surface.

The bay is broad which makes it suitable for long swims with clear water (when we were there we also saw one of the water cleaning boats that removes any stray items floating in the water). The swimming platform also makes swimming fun for older children as they can dive and jump into the w


There is parking at the back of the beach, but we're not sure where the access point is through S'Agaro. We parked higher up in the estate on one of the streets (for free) and walked down, or an alternative would be to park near the Port and walk across the final headland and down.


The GR92 continues along past the beach and around the S'Agaro headland to Sant Pol.

For walks see: Platja d'Aro and S'Agaro

Next beaches

South to Sant Pol (Sant Feliu de Guixols) - North to Platja d'Aro

Swimming at beaches between Platja d'Aro and Sant Antoni de Calonge
15 Aug 2013

Platja de les Torretes between Sant Antoni de Calonge and Platja dAro Costa Brava Between Platja d'Aro and Sant Antoni de Calonge (Torre Valentina) - both popular package holiday resorts - the main road runs past a number of four and five star hotels and several large campsites (International de Calonge, Treumal, Camping Cala GoGo).

From the road, the area itself just looks like a connecting route as it's not possible to see the coast directly from the road. However, if you stop get out of the car and walk down one of the many stairways between the buildings, you'll find a series of small coves and bays down under the cliffs.

These include the large beaches of Platja de les Torretes below Treumal and International de Calonge (under the wooden footbridge), and further down Platja de Bella-dona behind Hotel Cap Roig (four star), Hotel Sant Jordi (four star) and Hotel de les Pis (five star).

Further small bays and beaches continue to the south before reaching the main Platja d'Aro beach - these will be added later.

Platja de les Torretes is a broad beach with some rocky areas to the north and south and behind it are the fringes of the campsites directly on the beach.

Being close to the campsites many of those using the beach are Dutch and French campers.

The bay is open but flanked by villas on the cliffs above the beach to either side giving the beach a sense of privacy and sheltering it from the breeze.

Platja de Bella-dona near Platja dAro Costa Brava Platja de Bella-dona is a much-photographed, but much smaller beach with a large red rock island at one end (Cap Roig, though not the same as Cap Roig at Calella de Palafrugell).

The beach is divided in two via a short flight of stairs over a relatively small headland. These two half beaches are easily connected in the water though with a rocky bay with small islands.

This is an area we walked in spring but the GR92 was closed in places making connections between the bays difficult. Unfortunately the GR92 remains blocked between Platja de les Torretes and Platja de Bella-dona. 

Facilities at the beaches

Platja de les Torettes with the campsites behind has a small restaurant at the back and direct connection with Treumal.

When we visited it was possible to go out on a banana boat into the bay. The bay itself is marked off and there are pedalos for hire.

Platja de Bella-dona is more discreet. There is a chiringuito on the southern half of the beach, but few other facilties.

To reach this beach it's a long set of steps down from the road above and you have to find the cut through between the buildings.

The bay is much rockier (and so more interesting) and good for long distance swimming.

The bay with its islands has quite a number of rocks close to the surface, so you will need to wear goggles to navigate.

Lower half of Platja de Bella-dona Costa Brava Sand quality

The sand is on both beaches is coarse but not quite stony, but not really sandcastle type sand.

Platja de les Torretes is all sand even into the water and was being used for casual holiday-maker type beach volleyball.

Platja de Bella-dona also has coarse sand, but depending on where you enter the water you may find a line of pebbles and rocks, so you may need to walk along the beach to find the best entry point.


The bay at Platja de les Torretes is broad and open and shelves quite quickly. The water was clear in general, but a wind had washed some flotsam down towards the rocky parts to the left looking to the sea. Obviously this would depend on the day. Swimming it was a broad sandy bay but not particularly special.

Platja de Bella-dona was completely different. The swimming was spectacular as the bay is practically all rocks and there are small islands to explore and plenty of fish.

Entering the water you first come on a flat piece of rock - it looks like sand then you step on it and realise it's hard and slippy. Out in the bay are more rocks and crevices and it is perfect for snorkling, or for longer distance swimming between the two halfs of the beach.

The one difficulty is that at times the rocks get close to the surface so you do need to be aware of where things are under the water. It can be painful if you stop to tread water then kick a rock you haven't seen,


Parking can be problematic.

Many of the beach-goers for Platja de les Torretes come directly from the campsites. For other visitors there can be parking at the bottom part of the wooden footbridge that connects Calonge International to the beach, or parking further down just above the service station.

Platja de Bella-dona has some parking on the other side of the road to the hotels or into the estate above this, but it can be tricky at the peak periods.


All these beaches are on the GR92 and it is a favourite walk in some hiking guidebooks, but as mentioned above the path remains closed in places which means the occasional link up to the road at the top to avoid the blocakage. It's not a long walk from the main strip at Platja d'Aro (there are buses too).

For walks see: St Antoni de Calonge, Torre Valentina to Platja d'Aro (almost)

Next beaches

South to Platja d'Aro (Cala Rovira to be added) - North to Sant Antoni de Calonge

Swimming and beach at Platja d'Aro
10 Aug 2013

Beach at the Platja dAro Costa Brava along the strip Platja d'Aro (sometimes written by tourists as Playa d'Aro in the Spanish translation of the Catalan name), is a classic package holiday type beach-side town resort on the Costa Brava at the end of the Aro valley.

The town consists of a number of high rise buildings and hotels running along a broad long beach, backed onto by a main street full of shops, bars and restaurants.

Further in the back are a children's attraction park and a large water park and large estates of villas and holiday homes.

The town is popular with Dutch, German and Spanish tourists (very little sign of English about).

For locals Platja d'Aro is a main shopping area as it has main Spanish high-street chains like Zara and Mango and a large retail park.

Though it is a classic package holiday type resort, it is smaller and more refined and family friendly than Lloret or more infamous beach resorts on the Spanish Costas like Benidorm.

The whole town sits on a wide and open bay with a long wide beach. At the northern end of the beach, are a series of rocky bays around to Torre Valentina. At the south end is a port marina but there's about 4-5km between the two all of which counts as the Platja Gran.

The area being open, can suffer a little from wind but this doesn't seem to detract from sunbathers.

Facilities at the beaches

Beach at Platja dAro looking north The beach has bars, shops and restaurants directly behind it at the feet of the high rise apartment blocks and hotels. In front of these shops and restaurants is a long pedestrian avenue for taking a passeo. This avenue has a number of fountains, statues and water features and is well cared for.

The beach is long and wooden tracks run down from the avenue towards the water at various points. There are also regular shower points and lifeguard stations. Like many bigger beaches, it has a banana-boat attraction - a long sit-on inflatable pulled by a motor boat until everyone falls off.

The bay is marked off for swimmers quite a long way out. And in summer floating islands are put up in the water as platforms to swim out to (about 30-40m out from the side). There is a platform about every 350m.

A boat picking up flotsam that might have blown into the sea regularly runs through the water keeping the water clean.

Sand quality

The sand is not great. It's gritty made up of small pea or rice-sized stones and though not painful underfoot it's not a classic beach-sand experience.

Swimming platforms at Platja dAro Swimming

For such a large beach, the water is very clear. However the beach shelves deeply so you are out of your depth in a matter of a few metres.

With the water being cleaned regularly it's quite pleasant to swim, though being open it can become wavy quickly.

The swimming platforms offer good targets for long distance swimming.

Though the water is clear, the bay is sandy at the bottom and though there are occasional fish to be seen, it's not the best beach for snorkelling.


There is plenty of parking in town with a number of large town car parks behind the main shopping streets. Some are pay-for parking, but the main market car park just beyond Bonpreu, a little walk to the beach, is free.


Platja d'Aro is mainly for shopping and passeos. It is possible to walk to S'Agaro to the south or Torre Valentina to the north or out to Castell d'Aro along the river valley. However you'd probably want to start closer to get off the main strip first.

For walks see: Platja d'Aro and S'Agaro

Next beaches

South to Sa Conca, S'Agaro - North to Belladona and bays to Torre Valentina (Cala Rovira to be added)

Swimming at Platja de Pals and Platja Illa Roja
06 Aug 2013

View along Platja de Pals Costa Brava towards lEstartit and Torroella de Montgri Platja de Pals is a reasonably large community of houses and villas located at the sea about 4km down from the historic Pals village itself. It's one of the most seasonal areas on the Costa Brava.

In summer the houses and villas fill up, parking spaces can be something of a premium and there is a huge bustle around the many bars and restaurants in the area and children's amusements on the beach. In winter by contrast it feels empty with driftwood the only thing you might see on the beach.

The Platja itself is very long and broad, running all the way to L'Estartit about 10km to the north past a number of campsites on the beach and a golfing complex.

To sea are views out to the Isles Medes and down to the headland of Begur just around from Sa Riera. On a clear day you can see all the way to the hills around Cap de Creus in the Roses area.

Being broad and open, the main beach (Platja Gran) can become windy. The area is popular with kitesurfers and windsurfers away from the sunbathers.

Platja de la Isla Roja neighbouring Platja de Pals To the right as you look at the sea are a series of rocks sloping down into the sea.

On a busy day there will be a steady stream of people taking the path around the corner to the bay of Isla Roja a small beach tucked under a large red rock island that is used by naturists. This path runs over the top of the cliffs behind this island to reach Sa Riera.

The beach is very pretty but the cliffs behind does mean it loses the sun in the evening quite early. If you watch commercials on Spanish TV, this beach was used as the backdrop to the Damm Limon advert.

Facilities at the beaches

The main Platja de Pals has all the facilities you would expect of a popular holiday resort including children's amusements and in the village/shopping area numerous bars, restaurants and holiday shops.

On the beach itself are a number of chiringuitos and amusements like trampoline bouncers for children. In the bay there was a banana-boat (a big inflateable towed by a motor boat until everyone falls off).

In the past couple of years there has been a floating bouncy obstacle course out in the bay for amusement. Kite surfing is practiced towards the Gola de Ter end.

Platja de Pals The bay of Isla Roja has no facilities near by, but people like to jump off rocks jutting over the water (about 4-5m high).

Sand quality

For Platja Gran the beach is quite broad with dunes at the back. The sand at the top part of the beach is coarse but not stony while at the lower part of the beach near the water the sand feels much finer.

The sand is a type of grey colour rather than the classic sandy yellow.

For the beach of Isla Roja the sand is a little coarser, though still not sandy, and is more of a classic yellow in colour.


Boys jumping off rocks into the sea Costa Brava Swimming is as you might expect from a broad long sandy beach with few distinguishing features in the water, but obviously the potential for long uninterrupted swims.

The beach shelves quite quickly and there tends to be a current in the water - a gentle northward drift. If the wind picks up the water can become choppy as it's unsheltered as a bay.

If you like watching fish, we've discovered that around the rocks separating the main beach from Isla Roja beach, there are often large-ish shoals of fish that congregate around the rocks and when the water is clear it can feel like swimming in a fish pond.


Parking at the height of summer can be tricky particular around the main beach village area.

Parking spaces have to be paid for and there are both parking meters in operation and traffic wardens.

We've found the best place to park is to take the left fork at the Spa roundabout towards the golf clubs and park on one of the roads near the picnic area and tower (masked by the trees if you're looking for it) as it tends to be quieter.


The GR92 runs past Platja de Pals and it is possible to walk all the way up to Gola de Ter (the mouth of the river Ter). If this is crossable, which it isn't always, you can carry on to L'Estartit.

For us this is a great walk for the winter when the beach is more deserted. The prettier route is to head south and follow the path to the beach at Sa Riera the next beaches along and then possibly up to Begur.

For walks see: Pals beach to Gola de Ter, Masos de Pals, Begur, Sa Riera and Platja de Pals - Regencos to Pals via Quermany Gros and Petit

Next beaches

South to Sa Riera (Begur) - North to Gola del Ter (Pals/L'Estartit)

Swimming and beach at La Fosca
05 Aug 2013

Beach at La Fosca under the castle La Fosca is situated just to the north of Palamos on the Costa Brava.

The beach is large formed by two crescents of some of the softest sand with a rocky outcrop in the centre.

The right half as you look out to sea is backed by houses and a number of modernista buildings.

The left half further round has a selection of seasonal shops and restaurants.

Above the left hand side is the ruin of Castell d'Esteve. Behind the beach are a number of small low-rise hotels and a number of larger campsites including Kings and Palamos International.

The beach is popular with families and young children. The quality of the sand and the space available means it also attracts regular volleyball players who put up nets in the evenings.

La Fosca also very popular with the French. Most days there are regular boules/pentaque games being played just next to the shop area.

The neighbouring beach below the other side of the castle is pebbly, but attracts divers and snorkellers looking to explore the underwater terrain on the far side of the castle.

Facilities at the beaches

The beach includes a large bay which is marked off for swimming.

The rocky area to the right has a number of small boat slipways and is sometimes used as a boat access and is the only place where boats might get close to swimmers.

The right side of the beach (looking out to sea) has pedalo hire with slides and normally there are several pedalos out in the bay.

The left hand side has a canoe rental area. For such a beautiful beach, there aren't so many bars or restaurants.

There are a couple of chiringuitos (bars actually on the beach itself), but mostly the area is surrounded by low rise houses and flats for rent.

Sand quality

Beach at La Fosca right hand side The sand is very fine - probably the softest on the Costa Brava and is perfect for bucket and spade or sand castle making. Even in the rocky extremes to the left and right, there is sand under foot.


La Fosca has the gentlest entry into the water. It is possible to walk out 30-40m and still touch the bottom. This gentle shelving means that the water has the warmest water.

Early in the season at the start of June, La Fosca will be the first beach that many people choose to go to because of the temperature of the water.

However, there is a downside. Because of the warmth of the water, the bay can turn green and cloudy because it encourages the growth of a harmless algae in the water (if it was France, they'd probably sell it as a beauty treatment). This happens at the hottest periods and has the effect of discouraging many swimmers. In practice the algae is little more than a cloud that accumulates around the central rocky outcrop.

It is possible to swim out beyond the cloud and find clearer water further out.

The bay itself is sandy with some fish, but relatively plain. There are rocky areas to the left and right where you will find more fish and if snorkelling or diving are important, the area on the far side of the ruined castle is deep and clear with lots of nooks and crannies. Just be careful as out here the water is more open and less sheltered than in the bay.


Parking can be difficult partly because of the need to navigate the one-way streets.

There is parking under the pine trees a little way away, or near to the tennis courts at the back, but it's rare to find a park place right down by the beach at the heart of the summer.

If you have a canoe, you can drop the canoe off close to the beach, then drive off to park.


The GR92 runs past La Fosca. South is Palamos, but more interesting is the northern walk around the headlands past tucked away fishermen retreats to Platja de Castell.

For walks see: Platja de Castell and La Fosca, La Fosca to Palamos

Next beaches

South to Palamos main beach - North to Platja de Castell

Swimming at the beaches of Calella de Palafrugell
04 Aug 2013

Platja de Canadell in Calella de Palafrugell on the Costa Brava Calella de Palafrugell is one of the Costa Brava's gems. It's a small town on the coast with whitewashed houses, good restaurants and completely unspoilt by high rises or tacky tourism. The town runs along the coast over a series of small bays and coves. As a result there isn't a single town beach, but several different beaches nestling in among the low cliffs and rocky rises. Traditional Calella de Palafrugell was a small fishing village and it still has fishing boats on the beach or out into the water. The town is very picturesque, but it also looks out to the headland of Cap Roig and the islands of the Formigues site of a Catalan naval battle in 1281. There are four beach areas each of them is relatively small so they can get crowded. The first beach from the direction of Llafranc is Platja Canadell. The main (smallest) beach in the centre of town is Port Bo. This is the site of the main Havaneres festival (sea shanties) in July. South from the town are the two beaches of Port Pelegri - the beaches share the same bay, but divided by rocks. Further south before Cap Roig is the pebbly beach at Golfet. Calella de Palafrugell is also an easy walk to Llafranc.

Facilities at the beaches

Beach and restaurtants around Port Bo Calella de Palafrugell Canadell is the largest of the beaches (though still relatively small). It sits under a promenade with a number of old traditional Indianer houses. On the promenade itself above the beach are a number of bars and resturants and at the left hand end looking out to sea is the Hotel de la Torre, site of the historic watchtower for Calella. Under the promenade are a number of beach huts, some of which have been converted into bars. The beach has a boat taxi service out to the numerous boats that moor at Calella. The beach has lifeguards and it is possible to rent canoes.

Port Bo is the smallest of the beaches, but the most central. Bars and restaurants practically fall onto the beach and there is a raised wooden walk way where you pass so close to the people eating that you could pick at the plates. This beach is used by the fishing boats and has a number of rocky outcrops that are readily used as scramble and play areas. It's less used for swimming than the other beaches.

Port Pelegri splits in two and to reach both sides you have to take the path and steps from the promenade just in front of Hotel Mediterrani. The other hotel over looking the beach is Hotel Sant Roc which has private steps down to the sea. At sea level the beaches have houses/huts cut into the rocks and these have typically been turned into beach-side bars and restaurants now but without spoiling the charm of the beach. There are lifeguards and showers at beach level.

Golfet is the furthest beach from the town centre and is practically a wild beach. You can reach it via the Cami de Ronda that runs around the bays through a series of tunnels cut into the rocks, or from the top via steps (there is parking higher up). The beach itself is pebbly and unspoilt, but in some ways this is it's main charm - it's not touristy and has a very natural setting with a pillar of rock to the left and cliffs above. The bay is sandy initially then rocky which make it easy to enter the water.

All the bays are marked off with buoys for swimming.

Sand quality

Port Peligri beach Calella de Palafrugell left side The sand is generally coarse with the exception of Golfet which is made up of pebbles. The bays themselves are rocky but there is a run of sand before the rocks so getting in the water you can wade without a rocky surface. The exception is Canadell where the rocky part of the bay comes quite quickly in some places which can make the transition from warm on the beach to cool in the water difficult on the feet. Here, the best place to enter the water to start with is just in front of canoe area as the sand extends further into the bay.


Swimming is excellent particularly if you like to see fish. The beaches slope quickly into the water and the bays are rocky when you are in the water - hence the number of fish. Being quite sheltered, the water is rarely wavy and typically smooth and clear. In certain bays the rocks in the bay get quite close to the surface, so it's advisable to wear goggles. Stopping in the middle of the bay to admire the view, in some places you can find your feet kicking rocks.

Port Peligri beach Calella de Palafrugell right side Canadell is long enough to allow for a good distance swim and 'laps', but Port Pelegri has the longest stretch of water once you get out to the buoys.

Do watch out for the boat markings and if you do decide to cross a channel (eg to make a longer swim) keep an eye out for the boats. Calella is popular with sailors, so there are several channels for the sea-taxis ferrying people in and out of the town and these tend to be quite busy.


Parking in Calella can be difficult at peak times. There is a pay-for multistory just above the town centre which tends to be quiet as most people try to park on the main connecting road above the beaches. The chances are that you will find a space, but you may need to walk a little to reach the sea.


The GR92 runs past Calella de Palafrugell. There is a very easy well walked route around the headland to Llafranc. To the south the GR92 takes you past Cap Roig and out to the wild beaches of the Cap Roig/Castell protected area. There is also good walking inland through Ermedas or to Palafrugall and Mont-ras.

For walks see: Eulogy to the Ruta del Tren Petit (Palafrugell, Palamos, Mont-ras and Vall-llobrega) - Calella de Palafrugell/Cap Roig to Castell - classic wild Costa Brava - Mont-ras to Calella de Palafrugell and Llafranc

Next beaches

South to Cala Estreta and wild beaches to El Crit and Cap Roig - North to Llafranc

Swimming at the beach at Aiguablava
30 Jul 2013

Aiguablava beach on the Costa Brava in the late afternoon Aiguablava is a sandy beach located in the municipality of Begur, but just on from Tamariu. The beach is famous in that it is used as the poster-image for this part of the Costa Brava with sheltered clear turquoise sea under the cliffs and soft golden sand beach. The beach itself sits below a Parador (a type of luxury historic hotel run by the Spanish government), with rocky inlets to the left as you look out to sea and around a couple of these coves you come to Fornells, a tiny but exquisite fisherman's village with two hotels. During summer the bays fill up with luxury boats and yachts both for the scenery, the sheltered harbour and the quality of the swimming and water. One of the best features is the view across to the headland of Begur. As a result Aiguablava can get very popular (and crowded) at the height of summer. Almost the only way to reach the bay is by car which can make parking tricky.

Facilities at the beach

The beach does not have a village as such around it. Instead there is just a car park, then as you get down towards the sand there are a small number of seasonal bars and restaurants right on the beach some of which are only accessible across the sand. The bay is marked off for swimming and there is a lifeguard service. However, one of the attractions is that it's easy for experienced swimmers to swim into the other bays or even all the way round to Fornells.

There is a canoe and pedalo hire station to the right hand side. The area would be excellent for canoeing around the bays and cliffs.

Sand quality

The beach itself has a fine sand which is soft between the toes. It would be perfect for making sand castles, but it can get busy and tightly packed during the peak season. The neighbouring bay to the left, reachable walking over the cliff to the left, is an entirely pebble beach. The bays near Fornells are sandy but tiny with barely enough space for more than 2 or 3 families. Platja Fondo further round will be covered later.


Swimming is wonderful, though the water can get cloudy when the beach is really busy. For children the main beach shelves gently into the water and is mainly a clear sandy bottom, though the centre part has a line of pebbles just as you enter the water (the extreme left and right are softer). The exception are the rocky areas to either side with boulders and giant stones in the water teeming with fish. As mentioned, for a good swimmer there should be no problem swimming all the way across to Fornells. Each of the small bays is relatively rocky below the surface and there is excellent visibility for shoals of fish or other aquatic life. The only slight downside is that you have swim outside the protected area and among the boats. But mostly they are stationary and there shouldn't be any problem - certainly many people swim directly from the boats.

If Fornells is too far, then there is also good snorkelling in the area to the right and some caves in the rocks that are only accessible from the water.


Parking can  be difficult during the height of summer. The car park directly at the back has parking meters so you will have to pay (and a theoretical maximum time limit so you might need to re-ticket the car). In these sorts of places in the height of summer you can be pretty much guaranteed there will be ticket wardens around. Unfortunately the car park does fill up, and many people park on the road at the top, but again space can be limited. For this reason getting there either early-ish in the morning, or alternatively later in the evening are recommended.


The GR92 runs past Aiguablava and the walk up the cliff to the left will take you right round to Fornells and ultimately onwards and upwards to Begur. In the other direction the GR92 runs away from the coast to Tamariu - it's a relatively steep climb though.

For walks see: Fornells and Aiguablava walk (GR92) or alternatively Begur, Ses Negres and Sa Riera -  Sa Tuna, Cap de Begur, Begur - Palafrugell, Tamariu, Begur residential and Esclanya - Masos de Pals, Begur, Sa Riera and Platja de Pals

Next beaches

South to Aigua Xelida - North to Platja Fonda (Begur)

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17 Feb 2014 19:46
What a great blog. I am planning a walking holiday in the region and wonder if you can recommend the best walking maps, like UK ordnance survey ones.

I shall be reading more of your walks over the coming days as we plan.

Many thanks
24 Feb 2014 17:25
Glad you're enjoying it. We have recommendations for maps in our 'Advice and FAQ' section
13 Jul 2017 12:46
Sorry I missed the comment, so I hope it's not too late - use the contact box if you'd like to send a message. For the coast, the GR92 is best and if you have driver you can just take it piece by piece. For hikers, around Cap de Creus is great, though it can be dry and hard walking in summer. For us, the stretch between Palamos and Palafrugell and on to Begur is the prettiest part of the whole Costa Brava and really good for walking. I'd probably also take the walk up and over Montgri, possibly starting at Pals, or L'Estartit to L'Escala. And though you said you prefer the coast, don't overlook inland routes as there are some wonderful villages and countryside out towards Girona, La Bisbal, or Olot.
Sven-Gunnar Furmark
24 May 2017 11:43

My name is Sven Furmark. I am from Sweden. I plan to go to Costa Brava with some friends (totally about 10 people) for hiking for one week (5 walking days). We are experienced hikers and we usually walk 4-6 hours per day. We prefer to walk along the coast as much as possible. We plan to rent a house and travel to each days hiking with a bus & driver which we plan to book for the whole week. Which five hikes would you recommend for us.

Warm Regards
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